Hello from Oaxaca: December 2010

Ricas quesadillas fresh off the comal

Hello everyone,

How wonderful to be warm and walking around outside! Our trip down was uneventful and we landed in Oaxaca about 8:30 at night.

Los Gigantes, in our neighborhood, heading off to a Calenda, a small lively parade with one band and many revelers.

We are already having a fabulous time, seeing lots of our old friends and special places. The little apartment we have for two weeks is lovely and has a small courtyard where we can sit and read or have breakfast. We are on the same street as the house we usually stay in so we feel at home.

The gym is still open and is actually better than before, a few new machines and better layout downstairs. Yes, Gerraldo is still teaching the 7 am aerobics classes much to my and Julie's delight. A brand new routine every day, with brand new, loud Mexican and American music, and I mean LOUD. Just imagine what a tiny gay Mexican would like to dance to and you have a pretty good idea. It is such a show and great exercise besides! I also love that I have to speak and listen to Spanish that early, it is like a jump start each day.

December 23, Noche de los Rabanos (Night of the Radishes)

These men are working on their radish carvings getting ready for the evening display

We saw the famous carved radishes in the very crowded zocalo. There were absolutely amazing sculptures made from the large radishes grown expressly for this festival. Most of the works were cooperative projects involving a whole family or group of friends and all ages were participating. We really appreciated the creativity they showed.

One of our favorite displays was this replica of Frida Kahlo's painting, The Two Fridas, in which two seated figures are connected through their hearts. Each figure was about 30 inches high, and made completely from radishes.

This little guy kept peeking up to check on his parents' handiwork

The plumed serpent, Quetzalcoatl, above Monte Alban

We loved this diarama of the Mexican god Quetzalcoatl, the flying plumed serpent, suspended above a replica of the ancient city of Monte Alban. The young men seated behind the display are the artists and they will spray the greens and radishes with water in an attempt to keep them looking fresh until midnight. Most of these photos were taken in the afternoon before things got too crowded.

It is hard to believe what the people could make out of giant red skinned, white fleshed radishes!

The infant Jesus, a detail from a large Nativity scene

A traditional Oaxacan folk dancer

Another dancer whose skirt held a host of musicians

Lifting the tower of fireworks, el castillo, next to the cathedral

Oh, yes, of course there were fireworks! At 10 pm they lit a giant tower of fireworks right in the crowded plaza, which went off in segments from bottom to top, forming different designs, flowers opening and closing, etc. When the burning fuses reached the top, a spinning crown sent sparks flying and then shot straight up into the air, really high, raining sparks into the crowd! Very exciting! Next, there were fireworks shot from the roof of the Cathedral, while others, strung across the facade, finally created a gigantic waterfall effect down the entire building! Unbelievably cool and very, very close!

December 24th - Christmas Eve

A group of our friends gathered in the zocalo for the traditional Christmas Eve festivities, lots of calendas with floats carrying children and elders dressed as Mary and Joseph accompanied by many angels, and Los Tres Reyes, the Three Kings.

An especially macho bearded Joseph!

Dan and Elle, me and Julie watching the calenda go by

Julie and Steve covered in confetti, another tradition in Oaxaca. Eggs are hollowed out leaving an opening on the top which is filled with confetti and then colored tissue paper is glued over the opening. During the evening you can tap the egg against someone's head and cover them with the bright confetti - very silly and lots of fun.