The Festival of El Senor de Esquipulas

Madeline and Pattie in the church courtyard laughing at the antics of the band and los gigantes.

So much snow in the northeast, and so much sun and fun in Oaxaca!  January 15th is the Feast of Our Lord of Esquipulas, a beautiful black statue of the crucified Christ that is in the Church of Carmen Alto.  For reasons known only to Mexicans, this particular statue loves to be honored with lots of loud music, calendas through the streets of the parish, and of course, fireworks. Naturally, there are masses and prayers throughout the weekend as well, and there are usually fireworks and loud noises to begin and end those too.

Madeline, Pattie and Bill arrived a few days later than planned as their flight was cancelled due to snow. Luckily, they got here Friday about 10 pm, just in time for the big celebration.  Their airplane landed, they put their bags in their bedrooms and we ran up to Carmen Alto Church hoping that there was still some part of the calenda to experience. Si, senor! They were still dancing in the streets with a great loud band and lots of gigantic dolls.

Los gigantes entertaining everyone at the end of the calenda.

More of the festival:  Sunday afternoon's folkloric dance performance

It was such a joy to watch the young dancers! Their energy and enthusiasm are so inspiring.

Many schools teach the folk dancing and songs as part of the curriculum. We could see that these kids were  proud of  themselves and their culture.

Some young fans look on.  By the way, the traditional clothing and dance in the above photos is actually from Jalisco, the Mexican state that includes Guadalajara and Tequila - yes, that is where they produce the liquor.

The second part of the show featured traditional clothing from Oaxaca  along with one of its most popular dances. The red skirts are hand loomed cotton and each of the unique tunics are embroidered, beaded and/or  appliqued. The clothing and dance is from the southern part of the state of Oaxaca, the isthmus of Tehauntepec.

Unfortunately I cannot include the music even though I can hear it in my head as I type these lines: it is fast and fun and, of course, repetitious. 

The young women move back and forth in lines, sometimes holding the pineapples over their heads. They move them from shoulder to shoulder, place them on the ground and dance around them - and  at the Guelagetza celebration in July, they toss the pineapples into the crowd as they finish the dance!

 The smallest (and the youngest) of the gigantes we saw that weekend.  He really wanted to be part of the action and he hung in their despite the difficulties.

The little guy tilted quite a bit, but he kept getting back up.  That is Banda Peligro in the background, they have more energy than you can imagine.  They were excellent and they played for hours and hours all weekend long.  They were also good sports: they just ignored the drunk guy who kept stepping in front of them trying to be their conductor!

The little guy taking a break.  The two piece outfit has a frame of bamboo in the top half that must be held in place as he walks or dances.  I have never tried it but I am sure it isn't easy.  It sure is fun to watch though!

After the dancing and antics with the band, there was a large communal meal for parish members so we went off to eat some wonderful Oaxacan food to prepare for the long night ahead. 

Good thing, too, since we stayed until midnight! When we finally left, after the procession through the streets with the statue, after the fireworks, after the people dancing holding bulls and angels over their heads that shot more sparklers and fireworks into the crowd: the band was still playing, the gigantes were still dancing and people were throwing candy and pieces of plasticware into the crowd.

I forgot to mention that before, the Oaxacans must think Jesus really likes plastic cups, pitchers and storage containers, because they were still flying through the air when we left. Many happy people left carrying their loot! Here are some photos from Sunday evening's celebration:

The beautiful, much loved statue being readied for the procession.  Throughout the evening people were coming up to the statue, touching it with flowers or sometimes with their hands, then blessing themselves and their children.

The procession moves through the streets of the parish, then returns to the church.  People stood in long lines waiting to touch the statue before it returned to its niche high in one of the chapels for the rest of the year.

A man gets the crowd ready for the big fireworks display by carrying a figure of a bull that has small rockets and sparklers attached to it - very exciting and very crazy!

The gigantes join in the fun.  The castillo, or tower of fireworks, can be seen on the right.

An "angel" joins the gigantes. Even with the photos, it is hard to imagine this scene. Most of the photos did not come out once the angels and bulls were exploding, there was just too much smoke and light.  All these photos are of the more subdued moments.

Another angel

We knew you wouldn't believe this without an actual photo, so here it is: El Senor on the cross: in fireworks!  The wheel at the top spun around as the cross was displayed.  One of the smaller circles held the image of the host and chalice and that spun around and around, too. 

All this excitement packed into one weekend, what a way to start a vacation!  This entry only takes us through January 19, so fans of Bill, Pattie and Madeline should check in soon to see photos of them cooking Oaxacan food, doing aerobics in the park and exploring the ruins of Monte Alban and Mitla.

In the meantime, que te vaya bien!

January in Oaxaca

A nativity scene outside Santo Domingo church. Fans of Flat Stanley can imagine our surprise that Flat Baby Jesus showed up in our neighborhood!

Sorry that I haven't posted a new entry in so long, it has not been for lack of material but rather for lack of time.  So very much has filled the month of January down here.  We moved from our apartment into the large house that we have enjoyed for the last few years, it is lovely and feels very decadent. It was so nice to see the housekeeper, Magda, again as she continues to act as our unofficial Spanish teacher in addition to her many other tasks.

The table at our Spanish language school with hot chocolate and Rosca, the traditional cake for Three Kings Day.  Whoever gets the slice with the tiny baby in it must buy tamales for everyone on Candelaria, February 2.  Alan will be going to the market early for tamales that day! 

Much to our  delight Oaxaca celebrated Three Kings Day by filling the zocalo with many versions of Los Tres Reyes. These guys had kids posing on the large stuffed animals and were friendly as we took their photo.

Not this King!  For those of you who need translating, an empathic "NO!" is signaled by wagging the forefinger.

I did manage to get to Spanish class for eight days in the beginning of the month which was a real treat for me. Then our friends Freida and Peter, and their sons Phil and Ned got here, and Alan and I chose to enjoy them full time rather than go to classes. Of course it was a great plan since we got to do so many fun things with them as we attempted to fit the best of Oaxaca into five short days!

Phil, Peter, Ned, Freida and Alan at Tacos Alvaro

Phil and Ned clowning around on the roof of the monastery in Cuilapan on the way to the market in Zaachila

Can you spot three gringos at the market?

"Wow, I forgot that 'jovenes' are eating machines!" said Alan often during the time he spent with the Bixbys. (Joven is Spanish for young man)

Freida caught on the cell phone!

So many sights to take in at the market:  fruit, vegetables, handmade pottery that can be used right on the stove,
live chickens, turkeys, rabbits, wheelbarrows filled with baby chicks, clothing, homemade foods, candy and other treats, all for sale at very low prices.

Freida found a great handmade pot for cooking

The people are the best part of Oaxaca and especially at the markets

Looking for an embroidered apron, firewood, limes, tangerines, sweet potatoes, ground corn meal, chickens, tortillas, kitchen towels, matches, tamales? They are all right here!

Ned really enjoyed all aspects of eating at La Capilla

The family tree: the Bixbys in front of the giant tree at Santa Maria del Tulle.  This water Cyprus is more than 2000 years old and is much bigger than it looks in this photo.

There was a whole lot of sqealling going on here as the pigs were loaded back on the truck at the livestock market.  As soon as the men got each one into the truck bed, the pig was perfectly calm again.

 

We heard a live band playing and found them practicing inside this huge building at the market.  I couldn't resist dancing and this man came over and joined me.  He told us that the entire buliding was being prepared for the evening festivities in honor of the town's patron saint.  The woman behind Phil is fixing the altar.



Well, so much for today's post, I will send another within a few days, this only takes us through January 14! 
Stay tuned for the festival of El Senor de Esquipulas and Madeline, Pattie and Bill's visit to Oaxaca.
Hope all is well with all of you. 

!Que le vaya bien!

Oaxaca day by day

The little girl in the front row sang every song and kept up with the big kids just fine- 

There is so much to see and do in Oaxaca, and during the holidays, it seems like there is more than ever.  We went out with friends to a Christmas concert in San Felipe Neri church and heard a traditional "Tuna" group play with a choir of kids.  You can see the tuna players in the back, with the beautiful old instruments.

 There is a very interesting exhibit at the Textile Museum, this piece is one of the many on display.  A young woman artist, Navidad Amador, decided that she wanted to take the traditional crochet form of embroidery to another level.  Before she did this work she was a painter but she was not happy with her results, she felt that her work was missing something.  For this show she interpreted the work of some very important Oaxacan artists, some of them her teachers, using their themes, images, or style.

The pieces ranged in size from small to very large, some pieces were at least 10 ft by 10 ft!  All using a tiny crochet hook to pull colored threads from underneath and through each piece of fabric.

One evening we saw this young boy waiting on tables

 

 

The next day we saw him sweeping the sidewalk

 

 We are continually amazed by how hard the Oaxacan people work, and how many different ways they have come up with to make money.  They are an extremely enterprising bunch, often selling things in the streets while caring for their very little children.  It definitely humbles us to see them doing what they have to do to feed themselves and their families.  Another of the many reminders of how much we have to be thankful for.

A street vendor carrying all her wares and her little girl

      

This one man band is our favorite part of the neighborhood market on Sundays

How is this for a way to earn money?  We smile the whole time we listen to this man play in the busy courtyard of the market. His audience is the people who sit along the sides at various food and drink stands.  If you look closely, you will notice that he has two foot pedals, one for the bass drum and the other rigged up with a regular drumstick which hits a snare.  The notebooks on the bass drum contain the lyrics for many songs, written out one to a page.  When he is not playing the saxophone, he is often singing and playing the drums and cymbals with two sticks, or using the cowbell or the ridged white thing (can't remember the name) strapped to the side of the bass. The most important piece of equipment is the tin can for tips. What he lacks in finesse he makes up for with enthusiasm and good humor.

Hot ponche, anyone?

This is the first time we have seen this particular set-up: this man is selling ponche, a delicious, hot, holiday fruit punch, complete with charcoal fire burning under the large pot in the shopping cart, as you can see in the photo below. The woman next to him holds a large stick which carries candy apples, a treat often sold in the zocalo. 

Check out the charcoal fire under the pot inside the shopping cart. 

They even put the dogs to work! 
This one has it easy, she gets to lay around outside advertising the traditional embroidered clothing for sale inside the shop. 

Hmmm, being  in the sun sounds like a great idea!  I think I will go out into the beautiful day to enjoy more of what Oaxaca has to offer.  As they say here, "Que te vaya bien!"  (May all go well with you)

We send you all warm wishes 

for a healthy, prosperous and happy 2011!